40s

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I began Free Pattern Friday as a way to share all the vintage patterns I love with everyone else who might not have access to them. Quite often originals can be hard to find, especially pre-1940s (with some exceptions, including Iva Rose Reproductions). I also believe strongly that sharing information and getting others interested in it is what keeps it alive. Without a person actively digging into a subject deeply with glee, many facts, skills, arts, and works are lost to time. So imagine my joy at finding the National Library of Australia had scanned numerous newspapers and periodicals from the 1800s-1940s, and even greater joy at realizing their interface allowed for easy searching, public tagging, and public text correction.

A number of these publications contained ‘Women’s Supplements’, separate sections of the paper filled with all sorts of patterns and gossip on the latest stars and scandals, presumably because looking at national news might hurt womens’ heads. Still, there is a treasure to be dug out of these pages! Ravelry person shabbyknits found these beauties:

Knitted in Eyelet Fashion

New Pouched Jumper

…and I only searched ‘knitting’ and came up with these wonderful patterns amongst many, many others (click for the pattern):

Knit This In One Piece

For Your Holidays

Ski-ing Days: Where Hearts Are Trump

Ideal For The Summer Cruise

They’re out there! I didn’t even look for crocheted stuff! Oh, did I mention they have a one-click option to save as a PDF or image file? Your choice, at whatever zoom level you want (admittedly it gets a bit fiddly, breaking up into strange pieces sometimes, but thems the breaks). I ask that anyone reading this who has an interest in vintage patterns hops over there ASAP and starts searching, tagging, and correcting where possible, and if you’re on Ravelry, add them to the database! Even if you just add a link and the title, one of the obsessives (such as myself) will come along and add the rest of the information, and so another pattern will be shared with the world.

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I’ve been rather busy this week, so busy it wasn’t until attempting to post this week’s free pattern I noticed my site was down. Well, not ‘down’; I share server space with Mr. Angry Jim and due to some hierarchy glitch his site kept popping up whenever folks attempted to visit mine. Some kind person on Ravelry sent me a note about it, indicating the issue’d been going on since at least Thursday (and due to silliness on my part I accidentally deleted the message; do write back please!).

All is well now, and I certainly hope those who were redirected to Angry Jim’s site poked around a bit and enjoyed themselves. Also thank you to Site5, the server host who I will now plug after answering my frantic questions, LIVE, at 2 AM like it was perfectly normal. I probably interrupted someone’s Warcraft raid but they jumped right on fixing the problem.

I’ve often wondered if it’s not fear of technical difficulties that keeps many people from knitting vintage. The idea of looking at a pattern that assumes you have proficiency in intermediate knitting skills or will adventurously plunge into the unknown and potentially incomplete could make many a novice knitter nervous. Man, the alliteration’s been out of control this week.

There’s also the ‘trade-off’ of time invested in a garment vs. the satisfaction of completion. Most vintage patterns with their wee gauges and fiddly attention to detail scare away all but knitters who love the process and history nerds (a fine Venn overlap in my opinion). It’s true that finer gauge is part of the ‘vintage look’ of many knits; these garments were intended to be worn until the wearer outgrew them and the initial time creating them reflected the long-term investment in usage. However, the past has always had room for frippery and fad, from the ultra-balloon sleeves of the Regency period to the Hammer pants of the 90s and….uh, today apparently.


So it makes sense there were beginner, quick-knit, and chunky patterns of every era. In an attempt to get everyone to knit more old-timey goodness I’ve posted chunky knits from the 20s (2-Hour Sweater), 30s (3-Hour Sweater), and now the 40s (one guess how long this one will take).


(Pattern given for the one on the left.)

Stop….pattern time.

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I have a dream, a dream of a future where silly hats are the norm, where the bareheaded are laughed at behind their backs and towering millinery reaches peaks of silliness only reached by chopins and poulaines

Towards this end I offer this week’s pattern, courtesy of Modern Knitter. While certainly not the most ridiculous hat offered here, I see it as the beginning of a slippery slope off the deep end towards silly hats.

THIS
Crab Hat.
COULD
atomic pink hat
BE
Hot dog hat
OUR
hamster-with-hat
FUTURE!
seagull wearing a hat hat

Ignore the signs at your peril.

Millinery, ho!

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Urban Outfitters, flagship of a generation’s trends. If you see it here in the morning it’s all over the streets of Williamsburg by evening. Sure, their prices are a little ridiculous ($88 for a cotton skirt? I don’t care if it has a Navajo eagle printed on it), and they keep pushing the extraordinarily irksome glasses-as-pure-fashion-accessory (you know those glasses ads where people who clearly don’t need glasses are wearing glasses and you think ‘gee, they’d look better without the glasses on? Welcome to New York), but it can’t be denied that Urban Outfitters clothes those who put way too much effort into looking effortlessly hip (visible effort/enthusiasm = move to Portland).

puffsleeveblazerstrongshouldertunicstrongshoulderdress

While a lot of their catalog reveals a shift from ironic 80s to completely straightforward 90s appropriation (moving past Kelly Bundy and on to Season 1 of ’90210′), something about this latest ‘strong shoulder’ craze seemed…familiar. Hmmm…big shoulders…big….shoulders…biiiiig…….shoulderrrrrs…..

Handicrafter VolX No3 44
Oh, that’s right, the 40s*, which was sniped by the 80s, and now again by the…uh, can we call ourselves the aughts? Is that cool? We can call ourselves the Teens next year, ending this whole etymologic dilemma. Yes, during the War Years fashion reacted much like a frightened owl, sending shoulders soaring outward in defensive trajectory, adding angles to curves.

Considering we’re at war (both overseas and on drugs; how’s that one going by the way?) and dealing with numerous long-term natural disasters, it’s hard to fault fashion for reverting to a defensive posture, but it’s irksome when the new guard pretends they thought it up first.

You could land a plane on those shoulders.

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Here’s a trim, vaguely military number ready for warm weather. The chevron collar tabs are what sold me on this pattern from Sunglo no. 68, with the wee chevron pocket sealing the deal. What could you possibly fit in there? A pack of Listermints? Three cents? Ah, the frivolty and excess of fashion! Even the sleeves are a tad longer than truly necessary, and could be shortened without sacrificing the vintage look.

SunGlo 00

I recently watched a documentary on the Shakers, a religious group who believed amongst other things that work was a form of worship, and should be done simply and perfectly as God was in the details.

This didn’t mean work had to be hard; far from it, the Shakers invented numerous labor-saving devices to achieve a greater amount in less time, including the circular saw, round barns with ground-level hay loading, and the clothespin. In keeping with this belief, buildings, objects and clothes had no unnecessary ornamentation, but were absolutely practical and beautiful in their usefulness.

The Met has a Shaker room on display in its American wing- to look at it after rooms full of gaudy prints, rococo and baroque carved tables and chairs and yards of swag and drapery, is to see zen calm and peace radiating from smooth wood. It’s very austere, almost to the point of severity, but the care with which everything was put together shines warmly through.

A friend of mine is constantly on the lookout for the most basic of striped t-shirts: regular crew neck, stripes between 1/2-1 1/2 inches, preferably in non-neon colors. Somehow, they’re impossible to find. Either they have a v-neck, some weird patch sewn on, paint splatters with skulls and swirls screened over, the stripes have some fake distressed look, something. Every designer feels the need to add their little bit of flair to what is already a perfect design, ruining it from simple perfection. So it is with much of fashion, taking something that is clean and austere and slapping on a frill or tuck.

At the same time, those tiny details can occasionally enhance a basic outline, bringing out its shape more clearly, drawing attention to neat construction. So I hope it is with this pattern, that despite the inherent silliness of a useless pocket, overall the shirt is simple, yet pleasing.

Enough of the philosopy, make with the pattern already.

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