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On a recent trip to H&M I was disturbed to see an exact replica of justcallmeruby‘s gorgeous ‘Perfect Christmas Jumper’ hanging on a rack. In a recent entry on her site she posted side-by-side pictures; aside from a slight change of white triangle to white cross they’re identical.

Knitting is a craft. It requires an investment in time, effort, and to a lesser extent, money. Vintage knitting requires a special devotion – willingness to interpret implied directions, research into fabrics, yarns, and colors of the time period, an understanding of the era. When a store like H&M rips off a design intended to be crafted by hand it cheapens the nature of Craft. Anyone with $40 burning a hole in their pocket can walk in and buy this sweater without thinking, without effort.

In turn that consumer doesn’t realize and won’t understand the effort required by genuine craft (something any knitter who’s been asked by a random co-worker if they could whip up a sweater for them this weekend understands). How are any non-crafters supposed to understand the price of creating something by hand if it gets devalued by fast fashion?

I knit vintage not only because I’m a masochist who loves working on tiny, tiny needles but because I get the opportunity to bring a piece of history to life. I adore Craft in all its forms and am seriously annoyed how little respect perfection in creation gets nowadays. Few were more pissed off than me when the American Craft Museum changed its name to the Museum of Art & Design because as their chief curator said, ‘the understanding and meaning of the term ‘craft’ has changed’.

Yes, that’s right folks, if you create for yourself, your friends and for the sheer joy of it, you are a CRAFTER. If you create to stick it in a gallery or are ‘using the medium of ______’ to get an IDEA across, you are an ARTIST. BUNK! BUNK AND ROT I SAY! Loving attention to detail, careful study of form and materials, these transcend the barriers of intent! Stanley Kubrick was a MASTER of craftsmanship and it shines through all his films, but I doubt the man ever picked up a crochet hook in his life. The full investment of a person’s attention and focus into ANYTHING, no matter the medium, will show in a finished object.

Numerous devotees of Shaker furniture and objects say they were drawn to collecting the exceedingly practical and simple items because they ‘glowed’ or ‘had a presence’. The Shakers embodied the true spirit of Craft – joy in creation, perfection in execution, love in working. The ONLY thing separating art from craft is the Shaker’s last requirement: practicality. By (my very general) definition Art is that which has no purpose, but craft in the physical sense is that which does. Craft skills can certainly be applied to art, and the projects are all the better for it, but I’ve gotten rather far from my initial point that art should not scorn nor mass marketing reduce the value of craft.

Which sort of brings me close enough to introduce this week’s pattern, a Christmas-y little number with double Moose value for your effort. Ugh, sorry, I’m still chafing at the idea any ‘fashionista’ (aaagh, blood boiling) can pop in and purchase something….it’s sort of like seeing nepotism in action, or hearing a trust fund kid complain how Ibiza’s played out- your innate sense of the world’s ‘fairness’ gets tilted royally out of whack. Ugh. Ok, look at the nice pattern…nice moosey pattern.

It’s from Jack Frost, the pattern company who light all their photos like Bergman’s ‘Persona’.

Behold the natural beauty of the Grand Tetons.

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This week’s pattern is a jaunty little meta-sweater displaying engagement in the very activity the sweater is intended to be worn doing. The pattern’s a bit easier to follow than that sentence.

Intarsia knits are always a bit annoying to work but make up for it in pure 8-bit joy of wear- the awkward blockiness of the images charms enough to get over a thousand dangling strings tangling themselves as you go along. Mary Maxim patterns are the most well-known (that is, well-known among knitters, i.e. not at all among the general population), but there’s also Bouquet, Knit-O-Graf, and the looser search term ‘cowichan’, referring to the style of knitting developed by the Cowichan people of British Columbia.

A few choice examples:

Funnily enough, I found a reinterpretation of the same chart from this week’s pattern in a sweater for sale on ebay:


Intriguing!

Let’s hit the slopes!

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Urban Outfitters, flagship of a generation’s trends. If you see it here in the morning it’s all over the streets of Williamsburg by evening. Sure, their prices are a little ridiculous ($88 for a cotton skirt? I don’t care if it has a Navajo eagle printed on it), and they keep pushing the extraordinarily irksome glasses-as-pure-fashion-accessory (you know those glasses ads where people who clearly don’t need glasses are wearing glasses and you think ‘gee, they’d look better without the glasses on? Welcome to New York), but it can’t be denied that Urban Outfitters clothes those who put way too much effort into looking effortlessly hip (visible effort/enthusiasm = move to Portland).

puffsleeveblazerstrongshouldertunicstrongshoulderdress

While a lot of their catalog reveals a shift from ironic 80s to completely straightforward 90s appropriation (moving past Kelly Bundy and on to Season 1 of ’90210′), something about this latest ‘strong shoulder’ craze seemed…familiar. Hmmm…big shoulders…big….shoulders…biiiiig…….shoulderrrrrs…..

Handicrafter VolX No3 44
Oh, that’s right, the 40s*, which was sniped by the 80s, and now again by the…uh, can we call ourselves the aughts? Is that cool? We can call ourselves the Teens next year, ending this whole etymologic dilemma. Yes, during the War Years fashion reacted much like a frightened owl, sending shoulders soaring outward in defensive trajectory, adding angles to curves.

Considering we’re at war (both overseas and on drugs; how’s that one going by the way?) and dealing with numerous long-term natural disasters, it’s hard to fault fashion for reverting to a defensive posture, but it’s irksome when the new guard pretends they thought it up first.

You could land a plane on those shoulders.

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Just to change things up I’m posting one more pattern from the depths of the Australian Home Journal. This pert number would look delightful in a rich jewel tone, or you could just knit it monochromatically and stick a bunch of metal bits at the shoulder (that seems to be de rigueur if ladies tottering around Soho are to be trusted).

fairislejumper

Stripes!

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This week’s pattern again comes from the as-yet unidentified 1920′s Monarch book. It’s really swell, perfect for wing-dings down on the campus quad or being a real bearcat sallying a step or two past the fellas showing off your gams! I’d say it’s the cat’s pajamas but kitties can’t get their wiggle riding with fly-boys in their glad rags! An absolute hotsy-totsy number easy enough any Dumb Dora who don’t know from nothing could peg! I have no idea what I’m writing about anymore.

Minerva 03

Now you’re on the trolley!

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